Swatch Tutorial
Thursdy evening I had a student who was working on a baby sweater. She had yarn that was slightly bigger in gauge than the pattern gauge. But since baby sweaters are grow-into-able we didn't sweat it. But she mentioned that she thought she knew gauge before embarking on this sweater. After dealing with some issues in length because of the gauge difference, she realized she didn't know gauge. So I introduced them. And then I thought, what a great subject for a tutorial. Sure, most people probably get it, but some may not. And it's a great way for me to waste a Saturday afternoon!
So, Gauge: What is it and why do I care?
Gauge refers to the measurable fabric that results from a certain yarn knit with a specific needle size in a particular stitch pattern (usually St st). This measurement is determined by the manufacturer for each yarn they produce. The information is found on the ball band of said yarn. For sample purposes I am using Cascade 220 for my gauge swatch. When we query Cascade, we find that 220 has a gauge of 5 sts/1" on US7 and 4.5 sts/1" on US8 needles. Nowhere on their site, or any other retail sites, or the ball band, could I find a row gauge. For the most part row gauge isn't as critical in knitting, but we don't want to leave it out, so I did a google and found this information on Yarn Forward. Worsted Weight yarn, which is where Cascade 220 is usually grouped, is 20 sts and 26 rows equal to 4"x4" knit on US7 needles. Or 5 sts/1" and 6.5 rows/1". Now what do we do with this information?
When looking at patterns we need to focus on the Gauge/Tension information given. This is usually found at the beginning of any pattern. Beyond the materials, it is the most important thing we need to know. Even if we plan to use the required yarn, we still must know know what the gauge for the pattern is. Why? Because not all pattern gauge is the same as yarn gauge. Oh, they ARE the same, they just may not BE the same. An Aran pattern in Worsted Weight yarn will not show the same gauge as a Worsted Weight yarn gauge. When knitting cables you need more sts to cover the same measurement. Cables tend to draw in the fabric. So beware of the actual gauge information on the pattern and determine if the gauge is stated for St st or the pattern stitch. And even if the gauge is given in St st, which is the same as the yarn gauge, it doesn't mean that the designer gets the same gauge in St st as the yarn suggests. All knitters have their own gauge on certain yarns with certain needle sizes. So beware the tight or loose knit designer.
So we want to knit a nice sweater with our lovely Cascade 220 yarn? How about a lovely raglan from Debbie Bliss' Knitting Workbook. It calls for Rowan All Season's Cotton. The yarn is Aran Weight with a gauge of 4-4.5 sts on size 7-9 needles. I am using a size 7 needle with Cascade 220. Why? Because I know I don't like the fabric I get when I use a size 8 needle*. So, off I go. I cast on 26 sts and knit 4 rows in garter. Why? To keep the edge laying flat. I knit the first 3 and last 3 sts in garter to keep those edges flat. I knit 26 rows in St st with garter edges. Then I finish with 4 rows of garter and bind off. Here is the swatch hot off the needles. it measures 5"x5". But wait? I thought we were going for 4". We are. If you look at the swatch, there is garter stitch all around. The actual St st area measures 4"x4". If we do the math at this point we know that 20 sts divided by 4" = 5 sts per 1". But our pattern wants it to be 18 sts/4" or 4.5 sts/1". Is all lost? Not so quick. We must wash the swatch!
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Excuse me? Did the swatch get dirty? Besides getting oils and other stuff from our hands, we need to wash the swatch to see how the yarn reacts to the care it will receive once it is a garment. In this case I soak it in a tepid bath with a mild washing agent. Then I release the water by gently squishing it out and then rolling the damp item in a towel. I shook out the little swatch and laid it on the counter for measuring. Here's what I got. I now have a swatch that measures 5 1/2"x5", with a St st area of 4 1/4"x4". The sts bloomed in width, but not depth. So, if I do the calculation I have 20 sts divided by 4.25 = 4.70 sts per 1". Still a little too much sts gauge. So what now?
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What did it block out to? How about 4.375"x4". Final tabulation? 20 sts divided by 4.375" = 4.57 sts/1" Close enough for me. So I would be happy to knit this sweater with my Cascade 220 yarn on size 7 needles. But dare I knit a bright orange sweater? Maybe not. But I must admit, orange is one of my favs! Especially deep and rich shades of orange.
Does that help in the matter of gauge? Are you a little less confused about how to figure it out? A simpler way is to just lay your ruler on the fabric and count how many sts are within a 1" measurement. Just beware that unblocked swatches may result in false information. The best results come from measuring over a wider area of fabric. Just 1" isn't a true representation of the total fabric you created. Other things to keep in mind are what kind of fabric you are creating. How so?
Let's say you are using a DK Weight yarn, normally 24 sts on size 6 needles, for that Debbie Bliss raglan. Sure I can adjust the needle size to get 4.5 sts/1", but it would be so limp and holey I might not LIKE the sweater I created. Or say you found a wonderful Lopi color and just knew if would make a perfect raglan. It might, but go find a Lopi pattern for that Lopi yarn. At 3 sts/1" on size 10 needles, I doubt you would want the fabric created to get 4.5 sts/1" with Lopi. It would likely make a great wind breaker. Each yarn creates a nice fabric in it's own range. Don't try to switch ranges.
But what about substituting yarns? Yes you can. Just look for a comparable yarn in the same weight AND similar fiber. Each fiber has it's own characteristics and you need to be aware of any differences that could cause problems in your case. Silk is lovely, but weighty. You wouldn't want to use it for a Lopi Style sweater, even if you could afford a bulky weight silk. The weight would cause the garment to lengthen and distort. Some knit designers advise to make a large swatch** and hang it with weight, to simulate the way it will wear. If I was using silk, cotton, rayon or other man made fibers I would agree. You need to see how it will wear in the gauge you are knitting it to. Wool? I don't bother. It's so light and airy, and will likely not lengthen. But watch those wool blends.
Is this too much? Have I overloaded your brain? I hope not. I hope that you have picked up some pointers on how to approach and use gauge to make sure your knitting is what you intended, when you started the project. Making wise decisions before you begin will help you to achieve the best results. A great book to use for those decisions you need to make is Nancie Wiseman's Knitter's Book of Finishing Techniqes . It has wonderful questions to ask yourself before you even cast on. There is even a work sheet that steps you through each consideration.
Blessings: Teachers and friends who have helped me understand the importance of gauge. My first lesson was from Dee Ann at Knit Wit's. I purchased some Lopi from her to make the sweater that made me want to learn to knit. It's still packed away and in the stash. Paisley Intarsia all over the thing. But one of these days!
*If you are not familiar with a yarn and have no experience knitting with it, be sure to go with the recommended needle size and then go down a size or up a size. Most knitter tend to know if they are loose or tight. I was spot on in my early knitting career and have since loosened up.
**I do large swatches. I call them sleeves! If I am starting a baby sweater I don't sweat it. When it's for me? Do a sleeve and then go from there.